How to Upgrade A SNO-GO Fork
Without question, one of the most common questions we receive is whether a Shift bike can be upgraded with custom forks and cockpit components. The answer is yes, absolutely.
However - If in the event, you disregard following the specs, you might end up with a more expensive bike that not only took a bunch of time to build, but doesn't perform as good as the original. In short, bike geometry is everything on a SNO-GO bike and you should always maintain the bikes original geometry.
You will also need a Shifted G4 Fork Bracket.
For any questions, please reach out to customer service: info@snogo.us
First, should you consider upgrading your fork?
If you have a newer Shift with the stock fork, then unless you're just gliding on smooth groomed trails, a new fork will make a big difference and enhance your riding ability.
What fork should I get? The Shifted comes with a Fox Factory 36 150mm 29in (part number 910-21-292), so I used that as an acceptable size fork from a fit/geometry perspective.
What will I need?
You'll need to get the "Shifted" fork bracket to fit either of these forks (or any fork with a direct mount 180mm rotor size). You'll need headset spacers, I used a 15mm (under stem) and 3mm (above stem), the stock 40mm spacer will be too big (explain later). You'll either need a new crown race or re-use the one from the fork you're replacing. I would recommend getting a multi-tool steer tube setup instead of using a star nut and top cap because, 1) you'll have a multi-tool right in your steer tube and, 2) you won't have to worry about properly installing the star nut. For what it is worth, I installed the OneUp Components EDCv2. Additionally, ball end hex keys make it easy to tighten the bracket bolts with the fork installed.
What is the difference in forks?
Note, I was replacing a Shift stock (unnamed) fork. My new Fox is 440g lighter than the stock fork (yes, that isn't a type-o). The steer tube on the stock fork is REALLY long, 20mm longer than an uncut Fox steer tube, which is why you'll use different spacers.
What about all the other fork settings?
It was interesting to think about how I would approach the setup of the fork (PSI, HSC, LSC, HSR, and LSR), because when on a mountain bike, you body weight compresses the fork and gives you "sag" that you can use to get a starting point. I ride my Fox 38 on my MTB at around 96-98 PSI with 3 volume spacers, so I started with setting the fork on my SNO-GO to 85 PSI (but did that in my basement, so maybe slightly less when in the cold on the mountain), so about 10-12 PSI less than my MTB (which has the same fork, just a 29in). For high speed compression dampening, I went almost open (2 clicks from open), but wanted more support from low speed compression dampening, so did LSC 6 clicks from open (I know, you normally talk clicks from closed, but this was more about being open). For rebound dampening, because you really won't go through the travel like you do on a MTB, I set both HSR and LSR to the fastest recommended settings for the PSI (most clicks from closed on the chart). I found these settings worked well for me (I'm about 6' and 195lbs for reference).
How did it perform?
The new fork made a HUGE difference. It really soaks up all the feedback/chatter as well as the bigger hits from mounds or air off of rollers. It did feel weird initially, because while the new fork is more comfortable, the stock fork gave to a lot of feedback/information on the snow/ice conditions, which now I had to focus on getting elsewhere.
Should I get new/higher handlebars?
I had left the stock handlebars on (which are about a 40mm rise) even though I had purchased 50mm rise bars, partly because I initially felt the cockpit was very similar, and partly because I like to change one thing at a time. Having ridden with the stock (40mm) bars, I'm inclined to keep them, at least for the time being. At 6', I could see it both ways. The 40mm bars set you up in a slightly more aggressive stance, whereas the 50mm bars put me in a less aggressive stance and would probably be less physically draining. I tend to ride on the aggressive side, so I will leave the 40mm on for now, but I could see maybe splitting the difference and putting the 50mm bars on, but lowering the stem maybe 5mm.
Hope this helps anyone considering upgrading their fork.
Q&A Content by: Paul Kendall (SNO-GO customer)
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